Greece

American Express — Amex maintains an extensive network of offices and agents throughout Greece. The Athens office (tel. 210/325-4690) is located at 31 Panepistimiou, overlooking Syntagma Square. We indicate the locations of these offices and agencies throughout this book, as well as describe the various travel arrangements and financial services offered by American Express.

Area Codes — Area codes within Greece range from three digits in Athens (210) to as many as five digits in less populated locales. All phone numbers provided in the text start with the proper area code.

Banks — Banks are open to the public Monday through Thursday from 8am to 2pm, Friday from 8am to 1:30pm. Some banks have additional hours for foreign-currency exchange. All banks are closed on the long list of Greek holidays.

Business Hours — Greek business and office hours take some getting used to, especially in the afternoon, when most English-speaking people are accustomed to getting things done in high gear. Compounding the problem is that it is virtually impossible to pin down the precise hours of opening. We can start by saying that almost all stores and services are closed on Sunday — except, of course, tourist-oriented shops and services. On Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, hours are usually 9am to 3pm; Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 9am to 2pm and 5 to 7pm. The afternoon siesta is generally observed from 3 to 5pm, though many tourist-oriented businesses have a minimal crew on duty during naptime, and they may keep extended hours, often from 8am to 10pm. (In fact, in tourist centers, shops may be open at all kinds of hours.) Most government offices are open Monday through Friday only, from 8am to 3pm. Call ahead to check the hours of businesses you must deal with, and try not to disturb Greek friends during siesta hours. Final advice: Anything you really need to accomplish in a government office, business, or store should be done on weekdays between about 9am and 1pm.

Climate Control — Almost all Greek hotels recommended in this guide now promise air-conditioning in the hot season and heating in the colder months. The equipment is indeed there, but you should be aware that — except in the most expensive hotels — neither will necessarily be as adequate as you might like.

Crime — Crimes against tourists are not a significant concern in Greece. Athens is probably the safest capital in Europe. Pickpocketing and purse-snatching may be slightly on the rise, especially in heavily touristed areas, but breaking into cars remains rare. Tourists, however, are conspicuous and much more likely to carry valuables, so take normal precautions — lock the car, don’t leave cameras and such gear visible, and so on. Also, it is no longer safe to leave valuables unattended on all beaches. And young women should observe the obvious precautions in dealing with men in isolated locales.

Customs — What You Can Bring into Greece.

Passengers from North America arriving in Athens aboard international flights are generally not searched, and if you have nothing to declare, continue through the green lane. (Because of the continuing threat of terrorism, baggage is X-rayed before boarding of domestic flights.) However, citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and other non-E.U. countries do face a few common-sensical restrictions on what you can bring into Greece. Clearly, no narcotics: Greece is very tough on drug users! No explosives or weapons — although upon application, a sportsman might be able to bring in a legitimate hunting weapon. Only medications for amounts properly prescribed for your own use are allowed. Plants with soil are not. Dogs and cats can be brought in, but they must have proof of recent rabies and other health shots. No parrots are allowed.

You are allowed to bring into Greece duty-free personal belongings including clothes, camping gear, and most sports equipment. (Certain watersports equipment, such as windsurfers, can be brought in only if a Greek citizen residing in Greece guarantees they will be re-exported.) If you are traveling with your own scuba tank, you must have it sealed upon entry; it will be unsealed at recognized scuba locales. Visitors from outside the European Union are allowed up to 10 kilos of food and beverage, 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 250 grams of tobacco, 1 liter of distilled alcohol or 2 liters of wine, 50 grams of perfume, 500 grams of coffee, and 100 grams of tea.

You may bring two cameras with 10 rolls of film each, a movie or video camera, a portable radio, a phonograph or tape recorder, a typewriter, and a laptop computer. These will probably not be inspected, but in some cases they can be written into your passport, so you’d better have them when you leave! In fact, it is unlikely that you will be stopped at entry points, but if you are, and it is discovered that you are carrying much more than $1,000 in cash, this might be written in your passport. You will then be expected to produce receipts if you intend to leave without the same amount. Entering with your own car or other motor vehicle requires a fair amount of paperwork: Check with Greek embassy or consular authorities before setting out.

There are presently no restrictions on the amount of traveler’s checks you may carry upon either arrival or departure, although technically, amounts over $1,000 should be declared. If you plan to leave the country with more than $1,000 in bank notes (or its equivalent in other currency), technically you must declare at least that sum upon entry. No more than 1,000? ($1,300) per traveler may be imported or exported.

U.K. citizens and those of other E.U. nations are relatively free from most of these restrictions, but you still must comply with some, such as those pertaining to drugs, firearms, certain plants, some animals, and scuba tanks. There are also restrictions on young people importing alcohol and tobacco. Even large sums of currency or unusual amounts of electronic equipment might warrant notice. Basically, you are allowed to bring in what is reasonable for personal use but not for engagement in a business.

What You Can Take Out of Greece

All Nationalities: Greek antiquities are strictly protected by law. No genuine antiquities may be taken out of Greece without prior special permission from the Archaeological Service, 3 Polignotou, Athens. Also, you must be able to explain how you acquired any genuinely old objects — in particular, icons or religious articles. A dealer or shopkeeper must provide you with an export certificate for any object dating from before 1830.

And in general, keep all receipts for major purchases in order to clear Customs on your return home. To avoid having to pay duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before you left on your trip, bring along a bill of sale, an insurance policy, a jeweler’s appraisal, or purchase receipts. You can register items readily identifiable by a permanently affixed serial number or marking — think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players — with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you’re departing. You’ll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.

U.S. citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on “Travel,” and then click on “Know Before You Go Online Brochure.”) Or request the pamphlet from the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667).

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/10-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152) or consult their website at www.hmce.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263; or go to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Drugstores — These are called pharmikon in Greek; aside from the obvious indications in windows and interiors, they are identified by a green cross. For minor medical problems, go first to the nearest pharmacy. Pharmacists usually speak English, and many medications can be dispensed without prescription. In the larger cities, if it is closed, there should be a sign in the window directing you to the nearest open one. Newspapers also list the pharmacies that are open late or all night.

Electricity — Electric current in Greece is 220 volts AC, alternating at 50 cycles. (Some larger hotels have 110-volt low-wattage outlets for electric shavers, but they aren’t good for hair dryers and most other appliances.) Electrical outlets require Continental-type plugs with two round prongs. U.S. travelers will need an adapter plug and a transformer/converter, unless their appliances are dual-voltage. (Such transformers can be bought in stores like Radio Shack.) Laptop computer users will want to check their requirements; a transformer may be necessary, and surge protectors are recommended. But increasingly various appliances — including laptops and hair dryers — allow for a simple switch to the 220 volts.

Embassies & Consulates — United Kingdom citizens can get emergency aid by calling tel. 210/727-2600 during the day; at night, try tel. 210/723-7727. United States citizens can get emergency aid by calling tel. 210/721-2951 during the day; at night, try tel. 210/729-4301.

Emergencies — If there is no tourist police officer available (tel. 171), contact the local police, tel. 100. For fire, call tel. 199. For medical emergencies and/or first aid and/or an ambulance, call tel. 166. For hospitals, call tel. 106. For automobile emergencies, put out a triangular danger sign and call tel. 104 or 154. Embassies, consulates, and many hotels can recommend an English-speaking doctor.

Etiquette — Greeks generally observe the same practices with which most of us are familiar, but there are a few special variations.

Appropriate Attire Dress — or undress! — codes have been greatly relaxed at Greek beach resorts in recent years, but Greeks remain uncomfortable with beachwear or slovenly garb in villages and cities. Women are expected — indeed, often required — to cover their arms and upper legs before entering monasteries and churches. Some priests and monks are stricter than others and may flatly bar men as well as women if they feel that the men are not dressed suitably.

Gestures Greeks wave goodbye with the back of the hand — to hold up the open palm is to give the “evil eye”! Either wave sideways or in a little circle, but always with the palm turned away. When you are introduced to a Greek for the first time, a handshake is normal. When you get to know Greeks fairly well, the kiss on both cheeks is the accepted greeting. When Greeks meet small children, they tend to pinch them on the cheeks or pat them a bit harder than most of us would.

Avoiding Offense Greeks do not put a priority on punctuality, so do not be offended if they do not show up until well after the appointed time. Meanwhile, many Greeks observe a siesta between the hours of about 1pm and about 5pm so you are advised not to call on them at their homes during those hours unless invited to do so.

Hospitality Greeks consider it a point of honor to treat foreigners to a coffee or drink: You should ask to pay your share or to pick up the tab for both, but once the Greek has insisted, you should stop insisting and simply thank them. However, if you are invited to a Greek’s home for a meal or social event, flowers or chocolates are appropriate gifts. And by the way, Greeks make less of their birthday than their name day — that is, the day assigned to the saint after whom they have been named.

Here are three books that discuss some situations you might encounter as you make your way around Greece:

• The Global Etiquette Guide to Europe (Wiley Publishing, Inc.)
• Kiss, Bow or Shake Hands: How to Do Business in 60 Countries (Adams Media)
• Culture Shock: Greece! (Graphic Arts Center Publishing Co.)

Guides — You may prefer to employ local guides to take you and/or a small circle of fellow travelers to visit sites or cities. Professional guides in Greece are thoroughly trained, and the fees they charge are well regulated. Most reputable travel agencies can arrange for such guides. You can also contact the Union of Official Guides, 9A Apollonos, 10557 Athens (tel. 210/322-9705). Our only caution is that as good as these official guides are, they are trained to produce a stream of facts, not make small talk.

Haggling — Greek merchants resent foreigners who try to haggle over prices. In general, the marked price is the cost of the item. That said, some “games” can be played. Hesitate, consult with your companions with the appropriate expressions of regret, set the object down — with thanks! — and head for the exit. You may well be offered a lower price. But that is the merchant’s prerogative, and all depends upon the manner in which this behavior is conducted. If you come across as demanding or disapproving, you can forget any further negotiating.

Language — Language is usually not a problem for English speakers in Greece, as so much of the population has lived abroad, where English is the primary language. Young people learn it in school, from Anglo-American-dominated pop culture, and in special classes meant to prepare them for the contemporary world of business. Many television programs are also broadcast in their original languages, and American prime-time soaps are very popular, nearly inescapable. Even advertisements have an increasingly high English content. Don’t let all this keep you from trying to pick up at least a few words of Greek; your effort will be rewarded by your hosts, who realize how difficult their language is for foreigners and will patiently help you improve your pronunciation and usage. Look for books and audio courses on learning Greek, including Berlitz’s Greek for Travelers, Passport’s Conversational Greek in 7 Days, and Teach Yourself Greek Complete Course (book and CD pack).

Laundromats, Laundries & Dry Cleaning — All cities and towns of any size will have laundromats, laundries, and dry-cleaning establishments. Many travelers prefer to make arrangements through their hotel desks; this is fine, but be prepared to pay heavily for even the smallest bundle. (Then again, everything, including socks, will have been ironed!). If you leave your laundry or dry cleaning, be sure you are in agreement as to the time it will be ready, especially if you must leave town. A medium-size bag of laundry may cost about 15? ($20), washed, dried, and neatly folded.

Legal Aid — If you need legal assistance, contact your own or another English-speaking embassy or consulate; their addresses and phone numbers are provided under the “Fast Facts” sections of major cities.

Liquor Laws — The minimum age for being served alcohol in public locales is 18. Wine and beer are generally available in eating places but not in all coffeehouses or dessert cafes. Alcoholic beverages are sold in food stores as well as liquor stores. Although a certain amount of high spirits is appreciated, Greeks do not appreciate public drunkenness. The resort centers where mobs of young foreigners party every night are tolerated as necessary for the tourist trade, but the behavior wins no respect for foreigners.

Lost & Found — Be sure to contact all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. From Greece, Visa’s U.S. emergency number is tel. 001-800-11-638-0304; within North America, it’s tel. 800/847-2911. American Express cardholders and traveler’s check holders call tel. 001-336/393-1111; within North America call tel. 800/992-3404. MasterCard holders call tel. 001-800/11-887-0303; within North America call tel. 800/307-7309. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Identity theft and fraud are potential consequences of losing your wallet, especially if you’ve lost your driver’s license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (tel. 888/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (tel. 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (tel. 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you’ve lost all forms of photo ID, call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you’ve filed.

Mail — The mail service of Greece is reliable — but slow. (Postcards usually arrive weeks after you have arrived home.) You can receive mail addressed to you c/o Poste Restante, General Post Office, City (or Town), Island (or Province), Greece. You will need your passport to collect this mail. Many hotels will accept, hold, and even forward mail for you also; ask first. American Express clients can receive mail at any Amex office in Athens, Corfu, Iraklion, Mykonos, Patras, Rhodes, Santorini, Skiathos, and Thessaloniki, for a nominal fee and with proper identification. If you are in a particular hurry, try FedEx or one of the other major international private carriers; travel agencies can direct you to these.

Postage rates have been going up in Greece, as they are elsewhere. At press time, a postcard or a letter under 20 grams (about .7 oz.) costs .65? (85?) to North America and Europe; 20 to 50 grams (up to 1.75 oz.), 1.15? ($1.50); 50 to 100 grams (3.5 oz.) 1.60? ($2.10). Rates for packages depend on size as well as weight, but are reasonable. Note: Do not wrap or seal any package — you must be prepared to show the contents to a postal clerk.

Newspapers & Magazines — All cities, large towns, and major tourist centers have at least one shop or kiosk that carries a selection of foreign-language publications; most of these are flown or shipped in on the very day of publication. English-language readers have a wide selection, including most of the British papers (Daily Telegraph, Financial Times, Guardian, Independent, Times), the International Herald Tribune (with its English-language insert of the well-known Athens newspaper, Kathimerini), and USA Today. A decent (and cheaper!) alternative is the English-language paper published in Athens, Athens News, widely available throughout Greece.

Passports — Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes at least 3 to 5 weeks and can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). If you need a passport in a hurry, you’ll pay a significantly higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a ?12 ($16) 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A S. Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525); or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; or go to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency. You can also contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410; or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: If you are applying for your first passport, you must go in person to one of 6,000 passport desks across the country (most convenient are those in post offices). Passports can be renewed by downloading the appropriate form on the website of the U.S. Information Center, http://travel.state.gov. For general information, call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778); or go to that State Department website listed above.

Photocopying — In most Greek cities, the bookstores offer commercial photocopying services.

Photography — In several locales around Greece, photographing military or police installations is forbidden. These locales are posted and you are expected to observe the law. Cameras, film, accessories, and photo developing (including express service) are widely available, though slightly more expensive, in Greece.

Police — To report a crime or medical emergency, or for information or other assistance, first contact the local tourist police, where an English-speaking officer is more likely to be found. If there is no tourist police officer available (tel. 171), contact the local police at tel. 100.

Radio & Television — The Greek ERT 1 radio station has weather and news in English at 7:40am. The BBC World Service can be picked up on shortwave frequencies, often at 9.140, 15.07, and 12.09 Mhz; on FM it is usually at 107.1. Antenna TV, CNN, Eurochannel, and other cable networks are widely available. Many better hotels offer cable television.

Reservations — During the height of the tourist season, anyone with a tight schedule or strict preferences should definitely secure reservations at hotels, airlines, ship lines, and major festival performances.

Restrooms — Public restrooms are generally available in any good-size Greek town, and though they are sometimes rather crude, they usually do work. (Old-fashioned stand-up/squat facilities are still found.) Carry tissue or toilet paper with you at all times. In some places — even modern restaurants and hotels — you are told not to flush the paper down the toilet, but to use the receptacles provided. In an emergency, you can ask to use the facilities of a restaurant or shop; however, near major attractions, the facilities are denied to all but customers because traffic is too heavy. If you use any such facilities, respect its sponsor and give an attendant a tip.

Smoking — Greeks continue to be among the most persistent smokers. Smoking is prohibited on all domestic flights, in certain areas or types of ships, and in some public buildings (such as post offices), but except on airplanes, many Greeks — and some foreigners — feel free to puff away at will. (The airport in Athens is practically a cancer culture lab.) Hotels are only beginning to claim that they have set aside rooms or even floors for nonsmokers, so ask about them, if it matters to you. If you are really bothered by smoke while eating, about all you can do is position yourself as best as possible — and then be prepared to leave if it gets really bad.

Taxes & Service Charges — Unless otherwise noted, all hotel prices include a service charge of usually 12%, a 6% value-added tax (VAT), and a 4.5% community tax. In most restaurants, a 13% service charge, an 8% VAT, and some kind of municipal tax (in Athens it is 5%) are included in the prices and final bill. (Don’t confuse any of these charges with a standard “cover charge” that may be .50? to 2? (65?-$2.60) per place setting.) A VAT of 19% is added to rental-car rates.

All purchases include a VAT of anywhere from 4% to 18%. If you have purchased an item that costs 100? ($130) or more and are a citizen of a non-European Union nation, you can get most of this refunded (provided you export it within 90 days of purchase). It’s easiest to shop at stores that display the sign TAX-FREE FOR TOURISTS. However, any store should be able to provide you with a Tax-Free Check Form, which you complete in the store. If you use your charge card, the receipt will list the VAT separately from the cost of the item. As you are leaving the country, present a copy of this form to the refund desk (usually at the Customs office). Be prepared to show both the goods and the receipt as proof of purchase. Also be prepared to wait a fair amount of time before you get the refund. (In fact, the process at the airport seems designed to discourage you from trying to obtain the refund.)

Time — The European 24-hour clock is officially used to measure time, so on schedules you’ll see noon as 1200, 3:30pm as 1530, and 11pm as 2300. In informal conversation, however, Greeks express time much as we do — though noon may mean anywhere from noon to 3pm, afternoon is 3 to 7pm, and evening is 7pm to midnight.

Time Zone — Greece is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. In reference to North American time zones, it’s 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 8 hours ahead of Central Standard Time, 9 hours ahead of Mountain Standard Time, and 10 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time. Note that Greece does observe daylight saving time, although it may not start and stop on the same days as in North America.

Tipping — Restaurant bills, including the VAT and any local taxes, now include a 10% to 15% service charge. Nevertheless, it’s customary to leave an additional 5% to 10% for the waiter, especially if he or she has provided special service. Certainly round off on larger bills; even on small bills, leave change up to the nearest 1? ($1.30). Good taxi service merits a tip of 5% to 10%. (Greeks rarely tip taxi drivers, but tourists are expected to.) Hotel chambermaids should be left about 2? ($2.60) per night per couple. Bellhops and doormen should be tipped 1? ($1.30) to 5? ($6.50), depending on the services they provide.

Useful Phone Numbers — U.S. Department of State Overseas Citizens Services (such as travel advisories and medical emergencies) are as follows. From abroad, tel. 001-317/472-2328. From North America, during East Coast daylight hours, tel. 888/407-4747. For 24-hour service, tel. 202-647-4000.

U.S. Passport Agency can be reached at tel. 877/487-2778.

International Traveler’s Hot Line for U.S. Centers for Disease Control is tel. 877/394-8747.

Water — The public drinking water in Greece is safe to drink, although it can be slightly brackish in some locales near the sea. For that reason, many people prefer the bottled water commonly available at restaurants, hotels, cafes, food stores, and kiosks. The days when Greek restaurants automatically served glasses of cold fresh water are gone; you can try to insist on simply the tap water but you are now usually made to feel that you must order bottled water, at which point you will have to choose between natural or carbonated (metalliko), and domestic or imported. Cafes, however, tend to provide a glass of natural water.

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